A good start is to use a zoom lens zoomed to 70 - 85 or 105 and approach your subject. Most people will want to run a mile as you will be very close to them if you are trying to capture a head and shoulders crop. Professional models will not be worried but the average person would rather you go back and be further away until they are comfortable. I have found most people to be happy when you are at between 135mm and 200mm on a zoom lens, they relax more and you are able to produce more natural images.
Camera Canon eos 40D
Lens 70-200 f4 set at 189mm
Shutter 1/1000
Aperture f4
ISO 800
Which portrait lens to buy? I would go for the 135mm on a full frame sensor<5D>, or the 85mm 1.8 on the cropped sensor <40D> or just buy a 70mm-200mm zoom lens.
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